TRAINING TIPS page 2:
5. KENNEL: All puppies should be taught KENNEL. They need to learn that there are times when you want them to go into the kennel and remain quiet until you let them out. Teaching this to a young pup is very important. There will be times when you cannot give the pup the attention needed, and it must learn that being put into a kennel is part of life. It is not their choice, nor is it a punishment. It is simply a way to manage them safely and effectively. Mentally it is good for the pup as well, because this is a time to be quiet and calm. You will need the pup to kennel while driving in the car, staying in a motel, in the office, or at a relatives/friends house. And there will be times when the pup simply wears you out - or when you need some peace and quiet yourself. These are all times when the pup needs to be put in a kennel.
Here's how it's done: Use a portable kennel that is not too small or too big for the pup. The puppy should be able to walk around with a little room to spare, but not enough room to romp. It should have ventilated but solid sides (not all wire). I start with a small puppy pad for a bed in the kennel, and if the pup starts to chew or tear it, I remove it and they learn to lay on the plastic bottom. Put the kennel in a place where it can see you or members of the family. Take the pup to the kennel, show it a puppy treat (I use a biscuit), and lead the pup into the kennel with your hand holding the treat, saying the command KENNEL. Most pups need a gentle push the first few times. Give pup the treat and lock the door. What happens next varies a great deal. Some pups wimper a little then lay down and don't fuss too much. Some pups, on the other hand, throw a seismic screaming-meamie, complete with howling, barking, clawing, growling, name-calling, and threats to run away from home. For the pup that is quiet and calm, wait 1/2 hour and then let him out to potty and play. Repeat this several times a day or in the evening, and gradually increase the length of time the pup remains in the kennel. If the pup pitches a fit, DO NOT LET THE PUP OUT OF THE KENNEL. DO NOT SAY ANYTHING TO THE PUP. DO NOT GIVE IT MORE COOKIES, DO NOT YELL AT IT. SIMPLY IGNORE THE PUP. If the racket is too much for you to stand, take the kennel with the puppy inside, to a place where it won't bother you (in a car, a garage, another room etc). Eventually the pup will quiet down, then wait 1/2 hour and let it out to potty and play. Keep doing this until the pup learns that when you put it in a kennel it must remain quiet and calm. Some pups are a challenge - BUT UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES give in and remove the pup because it is pitching a fit. This is something all dogs need to learn, and now is the best time. I?ve had all the pups in kennels, and as a matter of fact the P litter pups took their first ride today in a kennel in the car. So - be strong - teach your pup to KENNEL and in the future you will be glad you did.
6. PUPPY RETRIEVING: Please don't fret about a pup that does not want to fetch right now. But if you play with him 
by tossing objects and he chases and picks them up - great. If he picks them up and brings them back to you even better. If he doesn't pick them up don't worry. The problem might be that at this age he is still cutting his puppy teeth, and his mouth is probably sore. Some toys, like puppy canvas bumpers, are hard and maybe uncomfortable to pick up. To play with the pup try tossing something soft and encouraging the pup with "Go Get It - or Good Puppy". Please don't say FETCH - here is why. . . .
REMEMBER - FETCH is not a play command. It is a very serious WORKING DOG command, and one that you shouldn't use ever ever ever when playing with a pup. Because if you throw any object and tell the pup to FETCH, and he doesn't understand the command, or hasn't been trained to obey the command, then you've inadventently taught him he doesn't have to obey the command. And once he is force broke, he will learn that he MUST obey FETCH every time he is commanded to do so. Right now he doesn't know that, but we don't want to confuse him by teaching him FETCH is something he can choose to obey or ignore. SO - if you want to throw a toy for him, simply say - Go Get It, or Something like that. So - once again - Please don't say FETCH. And don't use a pheasant wing at this age. Remember, we want pups to POINT birds first before they grab them. If his first exposure to birds is a situation where he can grab and chew bird parts his prey drive instinct may be elevated and his pointing instinct suppressed as a result. So wait until puppy has had a chance to point things (i.e. song birds, butterflies, rabbits, etc) and tap his natural pointing instinct before giving him bird parts to grab.
LOTS OF HUGS AND KISSES.
GOOD LUCK. MORE LATER!